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Post by OregonRed on Feb 23, 2015 15:20:25 GMT -5
gawd we all love seeing that Russian sage!
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Post by Veggie Gal on Feb 23, 2015 15:28:44 GMT -5
I love that photo......
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Post by davidjp on Feb 23, 2015 17:26:45 GMT -5
Fencing is probably the best route for rabbits as already mentioned. I have tons of rabbits but find that quite a small fence seems to work OK, the one I regularly use is i think about 18 inches high (photo below) maybe two foot, makes it easy to step over. I've never had a rabbit jump over it. I was really surprised by that but if you look at the UC pest management note for rabbits they mention they won't go over a 2 ft fence. I've seen them looking at my salads from the other side of the fence on many an occasion though. Maybe this is just California rabbits but has worked for me www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7447.htmlI've had rabbit problems in England as well and there they would easily jump a 3-4 ft fence and burrow for extended distances to get access but I guess although they look identical to English rabbits, California rabbits must be more chilled. Hoops there to support shade cloth which amazingly was on last week when it was mid 80's
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Post by binnylou on Feb 23, 2015 18:06:57 GMT -5
gawd we all love seeing that Russian sage! That Russian sage almost has a "glow".
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Post by lilolpeapicker on Feb 23, 2015 20:50:29 GMT -5
I have fencing all around the back yard. I have found several spots the rabbits or other critters have dug to get into the yard but the reading from Davidjp site, www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7447.html does state that the fencing needs to go down 6-10" into the ground and I had wondered if something like that would work...or other material. But I do have fencing that I could bury. So, I am going to work on that when the weather here cooperates, maybe in July, with all the snow we got.
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Post by desertwoman on Feb 23, 2015 21:17:28 GMT -5
pea- along with going down the 6-10 " just be sure that the fencing bends outward at an angle- sort of "L" shaped.
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Post by gakaren on Feb 23, 2015 23:26:13 GMT -5
MeatBurner, how warm is the soil under that hoop? Do you have a cool spot in your house that would still get some light? Or an unheated porch that is closed in?
If you don't have any place like that but the soil is around 40-50º, I'm betting they would be ok just set out & covered. But doing it that way may slow down the growth so you might not gain much in the end....but if you don't try, you'll never know!
OR, if you have some old milk jugs, you could cut the bottoms out of those and put over each plant until you get a bit warmer. If they need some cooling off during sunny days, just take the lids off the jugs.
Mine don't grow all that much when we get down into the 30's like we have been off/on for a couple of weeks.
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Post by brownrexx on Feb 24, 2015 8:24:01 GMT -5
I don't bury my chicken wire and the rabbits don't really seem to dig under it. Sometimes I put a brick on an edge that is rising up from the ground. I don't want it buried because it does not surround the entire garden, only half, and I like to move it ever two years for crop rotation.
I have had them jump over it a few times when it gets bent down where I step over it.
I do bury the wire that surrounds the outdoor run for the chicken pen because skunks will definitely dig under it if they can.
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Post by lisaann on Feb 24, 2015 17:55:26 GMT -5
I was thinking about that broccoli and the low hoop today at work.
Did you put a thermometer in there to check it?
It's so cold here, I'd need the inside to be at least 50º, and that would mean a 40º degree jump from outside temp to inside hoop temp. Can those hoop houses give you that much of a jump? I was wondering.
You might be able to harden them off right in the hoop, but have some extras on hand to use as back ups in April.
Till all is said and done you might be able to feed the neighborhood if it all makes it. Hahahaha
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Post by meatburner on Feb 24, 2015 22:48:05 GMT -5
Karen and Lisa, the beds are covered with 2" - 3" of ice/snow and single digits forcast for Friday night. I am not sure what and when to try to harden the broccoli in the low tunnel at this point. The night time temperature will reach the same inside the low tunnel as outside so it is only helpful through the day. Obviously cannot do anything until I can get some warmth in the beds. Will just play it by ear for now. Thanks for you thoughts.
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Post by lilolpeapicker on Feb 25, 2015 11:07:40 GMT -5
"pea- along with going down the 6-10 " just be sure that the fencing bends outward at an angle- sort of "L" shaped."
Yes, thank you for the reminder...I do remember reading that along the line in here.
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Post by lisaann on Mar 28, 2015 11:09:28 GMT -5
Meatburner,
How is your broccoli plan coming along?
Which varieties did you end up with?
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Post by mrsk on Mar 28, 2015 22:59:23 GMT -5
ok, last year my broccoli and cauliflower got way too many of the worms, Ugh, So, how long do you have to keep it covered? I know Brownrex has beautiful cabbages with nary a chemical using sheer curtains, but will the bird netting work? I am vowing to cover mine this year. I had a young man gardener, from Texas tell that DE would work too?
Mrs K
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Post by ncgarden on Mar 29, 2015 8:12:39 GMT -5
MrsK - bird netting is too big, you'll need screen or fine mesh (or sheers / row covers). Here in NC, I have to keep my brassica crops covered 100% of the time - Sometimes I have taken the covers off at harvest time, and the cabbage moths move right in and begin destruction. I can get a harvest in, but I lose a good bit to nastiness.
The only thing I can get away with not covering is the collards, because I plant so many and harvest young before they are decimated.
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Post by mrsk on Mar 29, 2015 9:06:11 GMT -5
ok, that is what I thought, but just checking. In the past I would get a few, but last year eww! I am headed to town this next week, so will add to my list.
Mrs K
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