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Post by desertwoman on Jun 29, 2019 11:10:34 GMT -5
I always direct sow my sugar pie pumpkin in June. I have two plants growing side by side. I usually plant 3 seeds and pinch out the two smaller ones, but didn't get to that that this year, so I have 2 plants growing within a couple of inches of each other- about 5" tall.
I'm thinking I should still pinch the extra one out but part of me wants to leave it. Any thoughts/experiences on growing pumpkin right next to each other greatly appreciated. I'm thinking it could affect the size of the pumpkins and maybe have less on each vine?
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Post by SpringRain on Jun 29, 2019 11:37:14 GMT -5
I always planted more than I needed, anticipating that the raccoons would sample some (which they did, once about 1/4 of all the pumpkins). So I wasn't very careful in planning and probably did sow too closely together.
If I remember correctly, I generally used the "plant around the watering can" method, with seeds anywhere from 2 -3 " to 5 or so inches from a large juice can with holes punched in it. Eventually I abandoned the juice can watering method, but I still spread out the seeds. I don't think I've ever planted 2" or so apart.
Can you transplant one of the plants? Five inches might just be within the range of successful transplanting. I would pot it up though, keep it out of the sun for a week or so, then gradually move it back to the garden and replant it. I wouldn't transplant it directly to another source, especially in this heat.
I think generally closeness would affect the size, but I know that you take excellent care of your soil, and it might just not have any issue with 2 plants.
If you do leave it, I would also train the vines to run in opposite or at least not parallel directions, and "tack down" the vines every few feet so that they have roots extended along the vines (assuming they're not bush pumpkins). That gives them extra support and soil access as they grow in opposite directions, or at least not as close to each other.
And, hopefully you won't but if the dreaded borers appear, you would already have portions of the vines covered and producing roots so that you can cut out the infected section. That's what I had to do when the borers made unwanted visits to my pumpkins and squash patches.
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Post by binnylou on Jun 29, 2019 11:43:23 GMT -5
Three plants per hill works just fine.
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Post by deckman22 on Jun 29, 2019 16:09:27 GMT -5
I agree with binnylou, so you should be fine with 2.
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Post by deckman22 on Jun 29, 2019 16:26:34 GMT -5
The daggum boring bugs have already gotten to my yellow crook neck squash plant. Pulled it and chunked it over the fence for the deer. Still have two golden zucchini plants going tho. I can see the bugs have going in their vine too, just haven't killed the plants yet. I have this problem every year, soon as the plant starts to really produce the bugs kill it.
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Post by binnylou on Jun 29, 2019 16:41:51 GMT -5
deckman22, Did you see the conversation about injecting BT into the vines. I think it was started by gardendmpls.
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Post by desertwoman on Jun 29, 2019 16:45:48 GMT -5
I don't think I've ever planted 2" or so apart. I don't usually either. But this was old seed- and I didn't know what the germination would be like so I planted all 7 I had left, expecting many of them wouldn't come up. They all sprouted! |
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Post by deckman22 on Jun 29, 2019 16:46:45 GMT -5
No I did not binnylou. What is BT?
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Post by deckman22 on Jun 29, 2019 16:49:21 GMT -5
Speaking of old seeds desertwoman, the yellow crook neck I planted was from 7 year old seed. I think the bigger seeds tend to last longer than small ones.
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Post by binnylou on Jun 29, 2019 16:59:46 GMT -5
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Post by binnylou on Jun 29, 2019 17:08:58 GMT -5
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Post by binnylou on Jun 29, 2019 17:11:48 GMT -5
deckman22 , this is from Mother Earth News. Bacillus thuringiensis, often abbreviated as Bt, is a naturally-occurring bacteria that makes pests sick when they eat it. There are two strains commonly used as natural pesticides.
Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki (Btk) gives excellent control of leaf-eating caterpillars such as cabbage worms and tomato hornworms, but has no activity against insects that do not eat treated leaves. After the insects eat the bacteria, their guts rupture and they die. Bt is therefore one of the safest natural pesticides you can use in terms of controlling caterpillar pests of vegetables or fruits without harming beneficial insects.
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Post by Wheelgarden on Jun 29, 2019 17:13:34 GMT -5
I'm only growing straightneck summer squash, but the son and I are prepping a couple of brand new beds for trying butternut, spaghetti, and Candy Roasters again next year, now that we will have extra space. Tried before, but SVB got them.
Again...so much for downsizing, but how can we help it, y'know? That spot is begging for something, and winter squash is so good.
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Post by gardendmpls on Jun 29, 2019 21:42:10 GMT -5
Never got many squash before I started injecting BT. It is sold as Thuricide and you can get it on line or in places like Lowes. Need more ingenuity to get the syringe. Have used some from a pharmacist friend and some used previously to give animal meds. If the stem is thick you can inject into the leaf stalk and it trickles down into the stem. I repeat in any new growth after a few weeks and now I get squash all summer.
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Post by tom 🕊 on Jun 30, 2019 6:43:00 GMT -5
Need more ingenuity to get the syringe. If you know anyone on insulin, they will give you a handful of their used, disposable syringes. The needles, though, aren't sturdy. I just tried. |
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